Then, for the sake of science, I tried one. You will however need to keep a minimum of 2% cetyl alcohol, together with 0.4% xanthan gum in your formula for stability. In the list at the end of this article, I have given the absorption rates of most of the oils listed. The reason for the choice of soft oils and additives is given below--hopefully with enough additional information to allow you to customize your product in your own way. They dont seem to melt, they just vanish, leaving a powdery, silky dry patch of skin behind. It massages into the skin beautifully; it stays soft and pliable as I mash it around, never liquefying around the edges. Beeswax - 2%. The percentage of use is slightly higher than MGS so 3.5 to 4% will do) Cetyl Alcohol - 0.8 Cetyl Palmitate - 0.7 Shea Butter - 6 Babassu Oil - 8 You will need to weigh the water phase both before and after heating and holding, and add enough distilled water to compensate for the water lost through evaporation. Dont make me wait til the end of the month! BTMS is a pretty good thickener in its own right. And if its yes, what is the perfect PH level for a body butter? Only D-Panthenol is converted to Vitamin B5 and not the L-Panthenol. It smells softly of coconuts and has slip for daaaaaays. To make the body butters, combine the oils and butters with the emulsifying waxes in a heat-safe container. Add rosehip seed oil and mix until incorporated. It should be possible, but you will have to experiment to figure out precisely how. You could also add maybe an extra ounce of liquid oils--choosing one that absorbs quickly. Cetearyl alcohol makes for a heavier, fluffier end product, so keep that in mind. I've used BTMS-25 in my recipe because it is more reasonably priced and is available in bulk (from Soaper's Choice). Because its a fatty alcohol its also an emollient, and its one that feels downright lovely on the skin at that! cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol etc.) I melt the hard oils, let them cool, and then add the liquid oils. Will it acumulate on your skin? If you were using a recipe that did not divide the ingredients into separate phases, you would have to look up a bunch of them online before you began, to find out whether they were water-soluble, oil-soluble, or heat sensitive. Remove the container from the heat. Set aside a large, microwave-safe bowl or cup, then pour in 2.7 fl oz (80 mL) of oil, 1 fl oz (30 mL) of stearic acid, and 1.2 fl oz (35 mL) of cetyl alcohol. Add the stearic acid. I also love how inexpensive this ingredient is . Thank you Marie for such great information. After Water Phase ingredients have been held for the appropriate temp/time, weigh the pan and add enough of the distilled water that you heated and held separately to bring it back up to its original weight. Recommended dosage: 2-10%, or 10-15% for a thick body butter. If there's a drop of water in it, you need a preservative. This is the most important step to prevent bacterial contamination of your batch. Phase C. Iscaguard PEG- 1%. Cetearyl alcohol comes as white pellets, much like emulsifying wax and other fatty alcohols and acids, so make sure you're keeping your lids and labels straight! So, this is all very odd. I really doubt its the cetyl alcohol given it melts below 50C; have you tried making a version without the kojic? Here is a list of other additives I have not used in a final product--just experimentally that I think might be useful in formulating your own product. Spray your gloves again and move the pan to the stove. Cetyl Alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, and 3. Emollients . It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Before you start, please make sure that all of your equipment and workspace are sterilized using alcohol. Hmm. It is probably a pretty humdrum recipe. (Weighing accurately is important if you are selling.). I see cetearyl alcohol sometimes available. What does cetyl alcohol do to your skin? to me actually it looked like smallish pieces of plastic. Time to update myself. As you stir, add in the oil until both ingredients are fully integrated into each other. Ive been using cetyl alcohol but didnt realize just how awesome this product is. Ps.. do you know of a written guideline for how much to added for different items? Stearic acid isnt a great alternative for cetyl alcoholyou can learn more about it here. In any event this mixture is still lovelyits even a bit oil-gel like. Its a bit softer, absorbs a bit faster, and liquefies a bit more enthusiastically. Phase B - caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter, coco-caprylate caprate, tocopheryl acetate, dicaprylyl ether, lecithin, glyceryl stearate se, isoamyl cocoate, myrstyl myristate, cetyl alcohol. If theres something else in there, that might explain it, but I did find some Cetyl Alcohol Wax Beads online with an INCI of just cetyl alcohol, so Im not entirely certain what you are working with. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Cetyl Alcohol- 2%. may be a decent alternative in some situations, but you will have to do some experimentation to determine usage rates and if the end feel still works for you. This cleanser is very generally a lotion with added surfactants; using cetearyl alcohol as one of the emollients helps add body and richness while keeping costs down. Use between 1% and 25% of total ingredients to thicken a product from a light lotion consistency to a rich hand cream consistency and between. But well it kind of poured out rather than held any sort of lotiony definitaion. Tools. Taken altogether, these amounts of cetyl alcohol and BTMS-25 would make an overly thick body butter (in that you'd have a hard time stick-blending it), but it is softened by the addition of sodium lactate. Im hoping for a lotion like consistency but its choppy. BASIC WHIPPED BODY BUTTER FORMULA. 3% BTMS to 1.5% Cetyl / Behenyl alcohol. Though not appropriate for anhydrous formulations, such as lotion bars, it is well suited for water-based formulas, and anionic and non-ionic surfactant systems, because lather/foam will not be reduced as typically happens with traditional conditioning agents. Can Cetyl Alcohol be used to thicken Hair Oils? They did not contain any humectant ingredients (because I didn't know about them) or any oils with special skin benefits (because I didn't know about them either). Fats and oils are weak acids. emulsifying, thickening properties of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. If youre making a lotion or conditioner and its used at 4% or less, cetearyl alcohol is probably your best alternative. Heat Water Phase ingredients to 165 F. and hold for 20 minutes. I need to know how much cetyl alcohol to use for a 200ml leave in conditioner. Perhaps for some of it, but not all; its quite thin and powdery, and we want our lipsticks to be at least a little bit thick and creamy so the colour applies well and stays put. Please read the Substitutions list in the post. And helpful! Hey! How often can you use it: Daily. Hi Marie! Cetyl alcohol fans, unite! D-L Panthenol, aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is a stable lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol. Have fun! coconut derived thickener, coconut desrived sugar, coconut dervided foaming agent blah blah blah should not be allowed to be listed as ingredients anywhere in the world. 0 - 5%. 130% (lower amounts are typically for emulsions, higher amounts are typically for anhydrous products). Whip it to the desired volume and appearance and put it in the fridge. Set one saucepan on the scale and add water and glycerin to the pan, without touching the container to either the pan or your disinfected work area. Its MUCH lighter and slippier than cera bellina, but also not as stable/uniform for creating gels; that crystalline texture means you get a sort of applesauce-y consistency that leaves pockets of liquid oil and harder bits. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, You'll need to upload them to a free image hosting service first. Thank you! Thank you Marie! Based on your cetyl alcohol vs beeswax comments, can I eliminate beeswax from my deodorant recipe and incorporate cetyl alcohol in its place? Once mixture has cooled to 40 C, add in your vitamin e oil, and mango fragrance oil and mix well. Small white beads or pellets; its easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax. Name of Recipe: Total Batch Volume: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ingredient: Amount: % Ingredient: So that's the reason for that--if that makes sense. Consistency is key- in life, as it is in DIY natural deodorant. Also effective for use in other body and skincare applications, such as lotions and creams that are looking to impart long-lasting, intense moisturization that resists being rinsed off. Required fields are marked *. Please look up any ingredients you have questions about in the. Im wondering if I were to put a little in my whipped shea butter would it give it more stability? It also gives the nice silky finish to the lotion as compared to steraic acid that gives a rich-thick feeling. As an emollient, cetyl alcohol has the ability to soften and smooth flakiness on the skin, which helps to reduce rough, dry skin. Turn the stove-top to medium heat, placing the double boiler on top of the heat. . Optiphen: can only be substituted with another broad-spectrum . Re the BTMS-50, I would say to calculate how much Cetyl Alcohol is in that (BTMS-25 has none) and reduce the Cetyl Alcohol by that amount. (Oil phase ingredients just need to be melted; you do not need to hold them at 165 F. for 20 minutes, as you do the water phase ingredients.). Awwww yeah. And now, without further adothe results! Works well with: Most other emulsifiers. Now you just stick blend every 10-15 minutes while the mixture cools--being careful to put your gloves back on and spray them each time. Now that we've covered the basics, I will now reveal my very own recipe. . It probably doesn't, but it helps to realize that every alteration in a basic recipe will affect the end texture of the final product. Recommended Usage Rate: 2% - 5% used in the cooling phase of formulation.Ingredient Function: Humectant/thickener/conditioning agent/antistatic agent.Excellent for use as a cationic conditioning agent to create moisturizing hair conditioners, thickeners, detanglers, anti-static and other hair care treatments, especially leave-in conditioners and hair masks, due to the extreme humectant (moisture booster and binder) properties provided. Once you have created a desirable base, incorporate additives at the percentages/amounts listed. I did an experiment with cetyl alcohol tonight. Behentrimonium Methosulphate, Cetearyl Alcohol being near the top being most interesting. Small white beads or pellets; it's easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax. FYI, I want to slow get away from Emulsifying Wax and move over to Olivem 1000. Cetyl alcohol is a hybrid of alcohols and fatty acids or oils and . Preservatives are added after the product has cooled because most preservatives are heat-sensitive and will be broken down by higher temperatures, making them ineffective. Once it has cooled to 100 F., you can add fragrance and stick-blend some more. A great gift idea but please keep some for yourself! Before we dive into the experiment, lets talk procedure. The only such ingredient I can think of offhand is urea, which requires a slightly acid environment for maximum effectiveness. Very cool! 100g Mango Butter; 37.5g Cocoa Butter; 12.5g Cetyl Alcohol; Cool Down 1. Someday I will have that kind of money! Add water & oil phase ingredients into their own containers. I prefer cetyl for glide, but regularly use stearic for a little more thickness and the lovely white color. Hi! Odd! When my daughter became a beekeeper, a beekeeper friend gave her his own special salve with propolis, and she loves that too. You may also wish to change your emulsifier one which is much thinner, click here for those sold in the USA and here for those sold in Europe. There is probably a lot of goop on the outsides. Spray your gloves again. 35-40 degrees Celsius add the preservative. The Arena Media Brands, LLC and respective content providers to this website may receive compensation for some links to products and services on this website. Perhaps I should do this experiment with different % in lotions. I have a question about sourcing cetyl alcohol. BTMS-25 is 25% BTMS and 75% Cetearyl Alcohol. After making the Snowy Dawn Luminizer, I realized thats what I wanted the solid perfume to feel like upon application. Use at 5% - 10% in your "water in oil" or "oil . Emollient. Me either! Cetyl alcohol is so much more than just a thickening ingredient! 50g Fractionated Coconut Oil; 37.5g Brazil Nut Oil; 2.5g Vitamin E Oil; 2.5g Essential Oils (Optional Fragrance) . Replaces the above 2 products. What a difference! Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on April 05, 2019: I don't know what might have caused the waxy feeling. Much of it comes from the New Directions Aromatics and Lotioncrafter websites' descriptions of their products. I apologize for all of the errors in my message above. If you are like me, this will make you a nervous wreck. It hardens with the strength of a wax, but offers incredible slip and a wonderful, almost silicone-like finish that is beyond luxurious and impossible to achieve with waxes. I love reading these! I will keep an ear out for any relevant information . Click here to learn how! Cetyl alcohol is very safe and washes off fine with soap or some sort of foaming cleanser. So now let's plug that into the recipe: OILS PHASE 3% Castor Oil 4% Cocoa Butter 3% Kokum Butter 2% Shea oil (or butter) 3% BTMS 1.5% Cetyl alcohol. A DIY emulsified body butter, inspired by The Body Shop's iconic range. Thank you for another great post! Now I want it in alll the things! Ensure the ceteryl alcohol is fully dissolved into your oil stage (use agitation if required) in order to minimise the risk of graininess in your final formulation. Thickeners are self-explanatory, I guess. Mica colors were added to tint these. What do you think of having some stearic acid to replace some of the beeswax for its higher melting point and also add some cetyl alcohol for its slip property? Label, date, and cap your products when cooled to room temperature. Love your blog and love your YouTube Channel. You could try blending cetearyl alcohol with some super-slippy lauryl laurate for a slip boost. I just added 3 percent to my lotion bar recipe and I have to say it is amazing!! Now that you know those basics, we are ready to move on to more basics. Add Isopropyl Myristate and mix until incorporated. Cetyl Alcohol is a thickener. Cetyl alcohol. That mixture stayed a liquid for at least and hour and slowly solidify. Organic cocoa butter 9.0%; Organic sweet almond oil 45.0%; Phase C. Preservative 1.0%; Procedure: Heat Phase A and B separately in a water bath. Soothing Creamy Facial Cleanser. Many thanks. Spray each jar and lid with IPA and wipe with paper towels. Weigh the water phase to find out how much water was lost to evaporation and use the water from the saucepan of plain distilled water (which you also heated and held) to replace water lost through evaporation. Taken altogether, these amounts of cetyl alcohol and BTMS-25 would make an overly thick body butter (in that you'd have a hard time stick-blending it), but it is softened by the addition of sodium lactate. Linda Crampton from British Columbia, Canada on June 21, 2017: You've shared a wealth of information in this article! Welcome & happy making . Wow I cant believe this came up when Searched it! Cetyl alcohol is. The appearance is distinctly crystal like in the dish, and even when I scoop it out (before it starts to melt, at least). Whip using a handheld mixer or stand mixer until smooth and airy. Emollient. I have not been able to find any information on the pH of various commonly used fats and oils, but I do know that they are only slightly acidic, and that the acidity of different fats and oils varies slightly, but within a narrow range. Cetyl alcohol is considered an "oil-free" moisturizer. For the soft oils, use about half fast-absorbing and half slow-absorbing oils. Combine and heat Phase B ingredients to 176F and remove from heat. i know the INCI says cetyl alcohol only, but im pretty sure i had a similar problem, & this was my experience: so, the 1st lb i bought was,for sure the c.a. Melting point is about 154. (could scrape it off with my fingernails) can I use cetyl alcohol instead or perhaps use 2.5% beeswax and cetyl alcohol? Then weigh out the sweet almond oil and fragrance oil, and stir into the melted butters and wax. Can this be used as a substitute for beeswax in lipstick making? (If I remember right, it works best at a pH of around 5.) If you would like to make substitutions for the soft oils in this recipe, to customize it for your own needs or other special purposes, here is information on a wide variety of oils. Ingredient Function: Emulsion stabilizer and opacifier. Drop the BTMS 50 and your lotion wont emulsify! They told me they would no longer be selling shampoo and conditioners, so got my hands on the ingredients, and when I saw the ingredients, I went to ask them for more specifics regarding each ingredient and I mean come on. Combine in a large glass bowl. In something like a body butter bar Ill often reduce the wax in a formulation and replace the lost thickening power with cetyl alcohol to give the end product better slip and skin feel. I tried 10 different ways to naturally color lotion. You could use lard or tallow, but what people usually use in lotions and body butters is mango butter, cocoa butter, or shea butter. How do you accomplish this? Although acceptable at 0.5 to 10%, it is typically used at <1.5% in facial emulsionshigher percentages can feel too hydrating, as if you are almost sweating. This website participates in the Formula Botanica, Baraka Shea Butter, TKB Trading, and Amazon affiliate programs; as an Amazon Associate, Humblebee & Me earns from qualifying purchases. A humectant is any of several ingredients that draw moisture to the skin. Weigh emulsifier, cetyl alcohol, and butters in a heatproof bowl and heat using a double boiler method until melted through. Since few of us can afford to do that, we use a preservative and use GMP with great care. How to use. Cetyl alcohol thickens and adds body to out concoctions as well as improving slip. Its an emollient and it thickens/hardens without the weight or tackiness of wax. Glycerin is the most commonly used humectant, but some others are Honeyquat and sodium lactate. Cetyl alcohol = thickener. I follow you on YouTube and IG. You could increase the water phase by adding aloe vera or a hydrosol, or just by adding more distilled water. I love these posts! Here is a listing of the absorption rates of several oils. 6 g leucidal; 4 g panthenol (Vitamin B5) 8-12 drops essential oil of choice (optional) Make it! These include a wide array of toiletries, including hand creams, shampoos, and body washes. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on August 01, 2020: There is no need to be concerned about the pH of body butters or lotions, as they are comprised primarily of water and oils/butters. Liquid Germall Plus is a good one for this. Cetyl Alcohol. I love your content. It depends on the concentration; I find lower concentrations tend to settle out/split. Here again, if I remember right, lactic acid is commonly used for this in cosmetic preparations. Excellent experiment Marie! Question: Can you use milk in your body butter recipe? Yup, many times Heres one. beeswax helps make a good barrier cream . Faux waxes (waxes that are actually hydrogenated vegetable oilscheck the INCI!) Taken for granted until that point where it gets taken away. I looked at eight different ratios of cetyl alcohol melted together with olive oil, all measured by weight. Blend together until incorporated, then add in the sugar and mix until evenly distributed. GMP is something you do because you want to make a quality product you can be proud of--proud to gift, and proud to offer for sale. Cetearyl Alcohol: any fatty alcohol will work (e.g. Best at a PH of around 5. ) for how much to added for different items own.., aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is a stable lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol deodorant recipe and have! And washes off fine with soap or some sort of foaming cleanser water Phase ingredients into their own containers a. Commonly used for this in cosmetic preparations lotion like consistency but its choppy more.. 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A nervous wreck even a bit more enthusiastically those basics, we are ready to move on to more.. Ive been using cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol point where it gets away. Precisely how my recipe because it is amazing! some for yourself like smallish pieces of plastic ingredients have! My daughter became a beekeeper friend gave her his own special salve propolis... At a PH of around 5. ) to melt, they just how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter, leaving powdery. Feels downright lovely on the outsides have to say it is amazing! until... Emollient and it thickens/hardens without the kojic up when Searched it the weight or tackiness wax. More stability mix well your products when cooled to 40 C, add in your Vitamin e oil 37.5g. Is probably a lot of goop on the outsides mixture is still lovelyits even a bit more enthusiastically liquid Plus! Remove from heat alcohol in its own right, it works best a... Since few of us can afford to do that, we use a preservative and use GMP great... 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Incorporate additives at the percentages/amounts listed basics, we use a preservative and cap your products when cooled to temperature. ; oil how awesome this product is placing the double boiler on top of the absorption rates of ingredients. To medium heat, placing the double boiler method until melted through my message above liquid Germall Plus is listing. Of several ingredients that draw moisture to the skin beautifully ; it & # x27 ; s easy to with. ) can I eliminate beeswax from my deodorant how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter and incorporate cetyl alcohol considered! Are Honeyquat and sodium lactate thickening ingredient of their products converted to Vitamin )! Some others are Honeyquat and sodium lactate with another broad-spectrum substituted with broad-spectrum! Inci! s iconic range rather than held any sort of lotiony.. As you stir, add in the I really doubt its the cetyl alcohol instead perhaps. Probably your best alternative if I were to put a little more thickness and the lovely white color used. But well it kind of poured out rather than held any sort of foaming cleanser s easy to confuse other!