Vintage or secondhand pairs cut that cost dramatically, but you have to keep in mind the fact that shell cordovan, once worn in, maintains its crease (or ripple) from the previous owner. When flexed, shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers. This might have been a touch too slim in the leg particularly after a few washes, which they hadnt had at this stage. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. My experience is different. How should I store my shell shoes and boots? It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). But then that might also mean your heel slips more. Crocodile is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them !!! If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? In my experience, Alden shell cordovan shoes can be rather smart (or not). Could you be more specific Kyle? It can be worn with a suit, odd trousers, and jeans. Any special way? With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. , this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. To reach and expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). I decided to buy a pair of dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and they arrived today. Whats good to know is that the cordovan that is delivered from Horween with its natural surface, is very sensitive to water, and easily gets stained and bad looking. Yes, water spotting is common with shell cordovan. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. I cant recall him imposing any any taxes on US exports but he did have a trade war with the EU. No, a dark brown leather or calf loafer will be more versatile, Thank you for your fast response! I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? . Is this your recommended maintenance for all shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining? One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. Hi Simon I am deciding between Black or Burgendy (not colour 8) cordovan loafers. Shell cordovan has a number of advantages over traditional cowhide. Brush, vigorously, for several minutes using a horsehair brush. I live in topsiders during the summer months and these also seem to have strong ties to the Northeastern United States. Ive heard that you can smooth out rolls with a metal spoon too, in lieu of a deer boneany truth to that? To start with, both use Horweem cordovan. I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? Color 8 is by far the most common color of shell cordovan available. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! Priceless. Thanks. I think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey. 9E in the Barrie. which affects the value point. Hi,Simon Hmm. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. Shell cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors. Heel pads I have found worthless so I am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem. See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. Thanks, nice to know youve found it so helpful. Very well worn. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. So with that, heres everything you need to know about shell cordovan care. i have the same full strap loafer from the alden x brooks brothers collab, bought 8 years ago and still look like they were bought 2 weeks ago. Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. From the link you provided, it seems that you went with Aldens Norwegian blucher on the Barrie last and with brass eyelets. very interesting article, as always. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. Thanks for your response. Hmm. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. Like a perfume with top, middle and base notes, you can see these different levels of colour particularly apparent when looking at the shoes in sunlight. Notably, the Alden store on Madison Avenue in New York city advised me once that you should eschew shoe cream and instead use paste wax every now and then (but keep it infrequent). Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. Mine are about 7 or 8 years old and have become better with age. The regular penny is widely stocked, at Trunk and Clutch for example. Of course, there is also the much broader point that killing animals to use their meat or skin doesnt mean you dont respect them. Thanks! Cheers! An article on how to polish would also be great or by memory I thin you have that covered? Thats the most important time. I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. In your article about your Belgravian loafer, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes. Still not certain of the color though: Thanks for any, and all input fellows/folks. I was wondering whether cordovan or suede split toe chukka boots is better when it comes to versatility when it comes to pairing it with clothing that is less formal than worsted suits, ease when it comes to maintenance and how well it keeps up against snow and heavy rain? May I ask why did you prefer this make up to the more common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets? Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? Anthony Jones: As long as you are aware of the cons, but still think the pros weigh over, give it a try. Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). On dark-brown shoes with suits, I love that combination. Would you agree with f.e. How often should I engage in shell cordovan care? I prefer the design of the Aldens generally, which is why I would stick with them when I could, over the C&J. 8? Hello Simon. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. Thank you! Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. And it can look great! The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. Theyre really nice. I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" A shirtmaker is telling me he is worried the Chambray Cloth might not be enough for a shirt (1.1 x 2.5m). It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. But thats just me, as you know many like cordovan a lot, so cant say if its something for you or not. RO! Indeed, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than denim. Shell cordovan is generally considered to be a high-end leather, but it is different from other exotic leathers such as crocodile or alligator skin in terms of appearance and texture. And as mentioned, most burgundy/oxblood isnt as nice as the colour 8. Also the Cavendish is my first pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more. The quality is often better than Alden, but the styles are smarter in general. Not really Im afraid. Picture: Alden of San Diego. How do I get rid of scratches and scuffs? But it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street. Over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip. They may the second largest producer after Horween. Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? The problem is I have no chance to try on Aldens in a shop where I live. Nope, thats literally everything, as promised by the headline. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? The Van shape can certainly work with a sports coat, but not as easily as the slimmer lasts I find. For other shoes I also have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede sanders chukka and alden split toe on cordovan. The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. I had these loafers for years but eventually the cordovan gave out at one of the ripples. Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. Im normally an 8.5 in UK shoes, and I went for a 9.5 in the Barrie. The search continues for a boot that can go with nice denim and smarter trousers. My Horween Shell Cordovan boots - Color #4 and #8. r/goodyearwelt [Initial Impressions] Custom Nicks Ridgeline in Brown Waxed Flesh. Thats where I got my boots from actually, but I didnt notice that on the tassels. I see. P.S. They also offer a greater range of widths than most makers. The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. I wear them with denim, with chinos, and at the most with flannels and knitwear. Thanks. 2. Thank you. Picture: Carmina (Top picture: Vcleat). Thanks. Of course, a US size is usually around one bigger than a UK size, where I wear an 8.5, sometimes an 8. Can it be fixed? Andy Vaughn is the brains behind Pure Polish, a complete line of 100% natural and biodegradable shoe care products made in small batches in Bend Oregon. Hi Simon, It wont feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on. Now when I have nightmares where Im running in slow motion and zombie Hitler is chasing me on a horse-sized scorpion with my grandmothers face, these are the shoes Im wearing. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw, The colour is particularly appealing too. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Would you say the van or abeerden last is more suitable? A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. Yes thats right. Im wearing with Black or Blue Blackhorse Lane E8. I guess one factor in the generalisation is that outside the US, we mostly see the more casual models. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. For that approach, a neutral cream offers the same protection and conditioning benefits of a colored cream, but without any additional pigmentation. After a vain attempt to clean them up, I conditioned them again and the next day, tried my hand at recoloring them with some Saphir recolorant. But Im afraid no, I dont think they would work with smarter trousers like flannels. Michael, I wouldnt personally Michael. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? Did Trump tax exports of leather soled shoes? Bundle of Thanks again. Its different. My CJ shell bloom to no end, while my friends Alden seems fine, whatever additional layer Alden put on seem to work. 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